Lesson learned.īy the way, I found out during the actual swap that IR printed the part number on the inside of the switch cover. The pressure switch seems cheep and really strikes me as a consumable part now. In talking to IR parts they mentioned to me that this is the most common reason for the bleed down not to happen in my series of compressor – not the check valve. I cleaned all fittings and installed new pipe thread tape before reinstalling them.īottom line is that I installed the new pressure switch and the compressor proper bled off the pressure from the pump after cycling. For example, I used a pipe wrench on this nipple to keep it from turning while I both removed the old pressure switch and installed a new one. Use pipe thread tape on all fittings and properly support the pipes and what not so the right things you care about are moving in the right direction. For example, the housing itself that you see just above the wrench uses a 3/4″ wrench. The pipe plug that goes in one unused position of the switch is actually 10mm. Here’s an odd little thing I encountered. These are thick wires in a tight space so be careful working things into position. Down on the bottom you have the neutral from the extension cord and the green/neutral going to the motor. The middle set of terminals are the hot legs going to motor. Okay so the top two terminals are the hot legs from the wall. Now IT does give you a new nut and that is plain 1/4″ copper tube if you screw up bad but you can re-use that whole piece if you are careful with removal and re-installation. Don’t ever use an adjustable wrench or you will likely round the corners off the nut as the jaws of the wrench give. Let me give you a piece of hard won advice – use a flare nut wrench if you can to support as many sides of the nut as you can or worst case use a proper fitting box end wrench. Folks when you go to remove the blead-off / unloader line, it is held on by a compression nut fitting. Note the top two poles are the hot legs coming from the wall. If you are in a multiperson environment, follow lock out procedures. I both cut the breaker and unplug the cord. I use a heavy stove/appliance cord going to a wall outlet. Second, please make sure the power is cut. Why open the floor drain? Because it’s your double check that it is empty. Fully drain the compressor – in other words let all of the air out and open the floor drain. Between my age and interruptions, I find it way too easy to forget things. Gone are the days when I try to keep it all in my head. I took a few photos from different angles to make sure I didn’t forget anything plus I labeled anything that might get turned around. So, when it comes to the repair, it’s a fairly easy swap. You will need to move your gauge, blow off valve, bleed down line, rear pipe plug and electrical lines over from the old switch to the new one. I removed the cover already but this is what comes in the box. I had problems with the check valve on other compressors so I jumped to conclusions and replaced that first. I did some reading and it turned out there were two likely culprits – either the check valve was leaking air back or the pressure switch was failing. After this got really annoying, I decided it was time to fix it. This meant that the compressor may or may not restart without tripping the 30A breaker and it got worse with time. At the end of the air fill cycle that brings the tank back up to pressure, the switch would shut off but then there wasn’t any bleed down to relieve the pressure on the pump. Failure is a big deal for me because when a compressor goes down in my shop, almost all work stops.Īt any rate, I knew something was going on with my compressor before it stopped running completely. One of the reasons I went with the 2340L5-V was that I kept burning out the little 30 gallon consumer compressors. Yes, it’s held up way better than my consumer air compressors but a buddy’s big Quincy compressor rocks and that is another story.Īt any rate, I use a ton of compressed air for pressurizing my casting tanks and running all kinds of air tools. In hindsight, had I known more about “value” meaning “we made it cheaper”, I would not have made the purchase. About 2-3 years ago I invested in a 60 gallon Ingersoll Rand (IR) 2340L5-V air compressor which is their entry-level “Value Line” of industrial compressors. I live in a rural area and wind up doing a lot of my own repairs.
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